Step through the telephone booth and you’ll forget you’re in 21st century, small-town Kailua. From Gaslamp’s exposed brick walls lined with shelves of old hardcover books to its leather seats and antique chandeliers, it’s clear that owner Josh VanEmmerik has an exceptional grasp on the business of ambience and experience.

“Detail is everything,” VanEmmerik says. “If one corner isn’t perfect, it’s not going to work. If I had come one or two strikes shy, it wouldn’t be what it is today. You have to own the concept or else you’ll fail.”

And own the concept he does. Gaslamp is a modern-day speakeasy located in Oeno Winemaking’s storage room with a hidden entrance through Kailua Town Pub & Grill. Gaslamp remains true to its essence, from its quiet opening last September to the decision to forgo advertising and stick to word-of-mouth.

Gaslamp is named after San Diego’s lively, urban entertainment district, Gaslamp Quarter, where VanEmmerik found his love for the craft and culture of the restaurant and bar industry. It was in his sophomore year at University of San Diego’s business school that he began conceptualizing his own place, though he wasn’t thinking about a particular genre just yet.

“Every time I’d see an open space or a space for lease sign, I’d call and get the information,” he says. “There are always options around you, you just have to find the ones that are gold. I think I found a little gem back here.”

VanEmmerik grew up in Kailua and worked at the pub, which his mom owns, during his teenage years, so he was well acquainted with Marshall Ziegler and Bryon Crowther, the owners of Oeno Winemaking. Knowing VanEmmerik was in business school, they asked him for his opinion and suggestions on what they could do to improve and stay afloat.

“I was walking through and critiquing what I saw from a customer perspective, and that’s when I discovered this room. There were big 10-gallon barrels of wine, one whole half was a broken-down bathroom, and some of the walls had puppy prints on them from the old pet store.”

After giving his two cents on redesigning the storefront and floor, VanEmmerik proposed the idea of transforming the back room and was offered the space. Though he credits luck for the way everything fell into place, Gaslamp’s success is no surprise given VanEmmerik’s work ethic. At just 25 years old, he is involved in every part of his business.

His workday starts around 5 a.m. with double checking orders and the work of his employees before coming in to clean the bar, deal with any issues, go on supply runs and assist with food preparations. On any given day, you might find him rolling up his sleeves in the kitchen, which Gaslamp shares with Kailua Town Pub & Grill, cutting tomahawk chops right off the rib cage. He comes back to the bar at 4 p.m. to prepare food, liquor, syrups and fruit slices for the evening. Then he works behind the bar alongside his employees until the last customer leaves.

VanEmmerik, a self-professed “beer guy,” developed the beer program on his own and built upon his Italian and Irish heritage in developing Gaslamp’s food program. “My mom is the best cook I’ve ever met,” he says. “I was fortunate enough to see and inherit some of her recipes.”

“When I hear someone say they’ll be back, it’s a little wind inside of me.”

It’s clear that VanEmmerik is comfortable and confident in the space he’s created, but he’s quick to praise his team and their collaborative efforts. “I don’t like to boast,” he says. “If you ask the people I employ, I never tell anyone that this is my place. I always tell people we don’t know the owner.”

VanEmmerik credits his bartenders for Gaslamp’s elaborate cocktail menu, which changes every two or three weeks. Though VanEmmerik makes the final decisions, bartenders are free to suggest their own interpretations of classic cocktails and create new ones to suit Gaslamp’s atmosphere and keep the menu fresh and in season.

Head bartender Clark Dean is Gaslamp’s resident aficionado. “He is an expert—a genius,” says VanEmmerik. “I gained most of my knowledge through him and developed a love for learning about spirits. He’ll tell you anything you want to know about any spirit to date. It’s unbelievable. He’ll tell you what happens when you mix this with that before you even taste it. He breaks down the science for customers when they want to know why he’s shaking two or three times, with or without ice, or at a different speed.”

VanEmmerik also commends his team of hostesses—“the backbone” of the operation, he says—for dealing with hot-headed guests who may not always be understanding of the challenges of creating an experience like Gaslamp. There’s a waitlist system due to the place’s small size, so it’s up to Gaslamp’s front-of-house staff to help guests understand they’re waiting for much more than a great cocktail—they are waiting for a memorable night.

To ensure guests get the full speakeasy experience, Gaslamp doesn’t have any television screens, instead offering live entertainment with a jazz musician up on the loft, plus blazers on loan for those not in dress code. “We’re a team of individuals in pursuit of progressing the social landscape of Kailua,” VanEmmerik says. “We’re trying to foster creativity and dialogue. Having a meaningful interaction between patron and place here is really what we’re after.”

With one successful opening under his belt, VanEmmerik is the midst of opening a new spot out in Waikiki. Though it’s risky and a lot to manage at such a young age, he’s excited for this next venture. “I love doing what I do,” he says. “When I hear someone say it was amazing and that they’ll be back, it’s a little wind inside of me. It’s a good feeling to have.”